{"id":191561,"date":"2022-10-27T07:30:07","date_gmt":"2022-10-27T11:30:07","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/today.uconn.edu\/?p=191561"},"modified":"2022-10-25T16:08:05","modified_gmt":"2022-10-25T20:08:05","slug":"still-going-forward-jorgensen-exhibit-celebrates-womens-history-with-costume-collection","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/today.uconn.edu\/2022\/10\/still-going-forward-jorgensen-exhibit-celebrates-womens-history-with-costume-collection\/","title":{"rendered":"&#8216;Still Going Forward&#8217;: Jorgensen Exhibit Celebrates Women&#8217;s History with Costume Collection"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>What can we learn about women throughout history from the clothes they wear? At the Jorgensen Gallery, the latest exhibit showcasing women\u2019s garments, accessories, and artifacts from a historic UConn costume collection prompts visitors to question their preconceptions about women\u2019s history through fashion.<\/p>\n<p>Located on the lower level of the Jorgensen Center for Performing Arts, the fittingly titled \u201cCelebration! A New Chapter for the M. Estelle Sprague Collection\u201d honors the 50<sup>th<\/sup> anniversary of the UConn Women\u2019s Center. Running through Dec. 9, the exhibit traces the diverse and changing styles of women\u2019s dress from the early 19<sup>th<\/sup> to 21<sup>st<\/sup> centuries.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cThe nice thing about this collection is that there\u2019s a little something for everybody,\u201d says Exhibition Curator Susan J. Jerome.<\/p>\n<p>Jerome notes that the artifacts on display are part of the larger M. Estelle Sprague Collection, which contains around 7,500 items including clothes, shoes, and other artifacts like letters and journals. This collection of mostly women\u2019s clothes began informally in the 1920s, with donations from UConn faculty and staff to what was then the School of Home Economics. M. Estelle Sprague, a former dean of the School, became the collection\u2019s namesake after her passing in 1940.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_191724\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-191724\" style=\"width: 500px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-191724 img-responsive lazyload\" data-src=\"https:\/\/today.uconn.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/101822-JorgensenWomensCenterExhibit-3-300x200.jpg\" alt=\"Leann Sanders, an administrative assistant in the Jorgensen Center for the Performing Arts, looks at some of the items on display in the Jorgensen Gallery\u2019s current exhibit celebrating the UConn Women\u2019s Center\u2019s 50th anniversary.\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/today.uconn.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/101822-JorgensenWomensCenterExhibit-3-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/today.uconn.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/101822-JorgensenWomensCenterExhibit-3-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/today.uconn.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/101822-JorgensenWomensCenterExhibit-3-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/today.uconn.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/101822-JorgensenWomensCenterExhibit-3-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/today.uconn.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/101822-JorgensenWomensCenterExhibit-3-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/today.uconn.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/101822-JorgensenWomensCenterExhibit-3-630x420.jpg 630w, https:\/\/today.uconn.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/101822-JorgensenWomensCenterExhibit-3-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/today.uconn.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/101822-JorgensenWomensCenterExhibit-3-998x665.jpg 998w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 500px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 500\/333;\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-191724\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Leann Sanders, an administrative assistant in the Jorgensen Center for the Performing Arts, looks at some of the items on display in the Jorgensen Gallery\u2019s current exhibit celebrating the UConn Women\u2019s Center\u2019s 50th anniversary on Oct. 18, 2022. (Sydney Herdle\/UConn Photo)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Recently, Jerome has led a larger effort to refine and arrange the collection for curation, with \u201cCelebration!\u201d being the result. As Director of Jorgensen Rodney Rock notes, this exhibit mirrors UConn\u2019s history from its 1881 founding to the present.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cThis fashion collection is a great way to give people a little insight into the types of women that were involved at the University during that whole period,\u201d Rock says.<\/p>\n<p>One of these women is Elizabeth May, another former dean of the School of Home Economics at UConn in the 1950s, whom Jerome says was \u201cbucking gender roles\u201d at a time when most administrators were men. Imitating their attire, May wore her own suits, two of which are on display: one 1950s gray designed by Adele Simpson and another 1950 navy Bonwit Teller. At the same time, Jerome points out their corseted style, \u201cwhich emphasizes the shape underneath, but still looks very feminine.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Jerome says one of her personal favorite pieces is a dress from about 1838, because it was donated by one of her close friends, Elizabeth Adam Noyes, who passed away last year. In addition to donating several garments to the collection, Noyes gave many paper artifacts, including letters and business records dating back to the late 1700s.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWe have garments, we have letters, we have so much information that can really tell us a lot about how people lived in the late 17 and early 1800s,\u201d Jerome says.<\/p>\n<p>While much can be gleaned from these records, Jerome notes the lack of information about those who respectively made, wore, and donated several of the collection\u2019s other garments. More research is needed to obtain these details, which other UConn students, faculty, and staff may undertake, as the collection is also meant to serve as a resource for them.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cCelebration!\u201d has already been insightful for the UConn graduate students studying costume design who helped with the exhibit\u2019s installation. Jerome shares that these students usually only see pictures of objects like those on display.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cBut to be able to look at the inside of a garment that was made in 1902 is very illuminating,\u201d Jerome says. \u201cYou can see how the body is shaped under, and how the garment is meant to hang a certain way.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>In her own research, Jerome looked through several editions of UConn\u2019s yearbook, The Nutmeg, which has been publishing annually since 1915. The exhibit includes images of pages from the 1975 yearbook, which had its own section written by women about women at the University for the first time.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_191725\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-191725\" style=\"width: 500px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-191725 img-responsive lazyload\" data-src=\"https:\/\/today.uconn.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/101822-JorgensenWomensCenterExhibit-4-300x200.jpg\" alt=\"UConn student Zoe Orie looks at some of the items on display in the Jorgensen Gallery\u2019s current exhibit celebrating the UConn Women\u2019s Center\u2019s 50th anniversary.\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/today.uconn.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/101822-JorgensenWomensCenterExhibit-4-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/today.uconn.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/101822-JorgensenWomensCenterExhibit-4-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/today.uconn.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/101822-JorgensenWomensCenterExhibit-4-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/today.uconn.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/101822-JorgensenWomensCenterExhibit-4-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/today.uconn.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/101822-JorgensenWomensCenterExhibit-4-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/today.uconn.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/101822-JorgensenWomensCenterExhibit-4-630x420.jpg 630w, https:\/\/today.uconn.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/101822-JorgensenWomensCenterExhibit-4-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/today.uconn.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/101822-JorgensenWomensCenterExhibit-4-998x665.jpg 998w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 500px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 500\/333;\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-191725\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">UConn student Zoe Orie looks at some of the items on display in the Jorgensen Gallery\u2019s current exhibit celebrating the UConn Women\u2019s Center\u2019s 50th anniversary on Oct. 18, 2022. (Sydney Herdle\/UConn Photo)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Another image on display is from the 1965-66 Associated Women\u2019s Student Handbook, which outlined the dress code for UConn\u2019s women students. The excerpt lists the locations around campus where they were required to wear skirts.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cIt certainly does show you the changes in values, expectations, and appropriateness in how society looks at women,\u201d says Jerome.<\/p>\n<p>Another major change that can be seen in the exhibit is the amount of skin women were able to expose over the years, with the most conservative garments dating from the 1800s. However, these early 19<sup>th<\/sup> century clothes have their own surprises. For example, one 1840s dress has a prominent pocket on the inside, which appears to be made from a large rock salt bag.<\/p>\n<p>Discussing these early dresses, Jerome notes that many would be made at home or by a dressmaker, and are \u201cone-of-a-kind.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWhen you make your own clothes, or you have a dressmaker make your own clothes, you\u2019re the only one who\u2019s wearing that. And that\u2019s true for the 19<sup>th<\/sup> century,\u201d Jerome says, adding it\u2019s a practice \u201cwe\u2019ve really lost.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Jerome says this collection will ultimately go to The William Benton Museum of Art, where it will continue to support University programs.<\/p>\n<p>Thinking about \u201cCelebration!\u201d as a whole, Jerome says it shows a \u201cmetamorphosis of women\u201d from non-professional to professional working relationships in society.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWe\u2019ve been around forever, we\u2019re still here, and we\u2019re still going forward,\u201d Jerome says.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Tracing changing expectations, values, and ambitions through the &#8216;fabric&#8217; of history <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":68,"featured_media":191726,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_crdt_document":"","wds_primary_category":0,"wds_primary_series":0,"wds_primary_attribution":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1711,1914,2235,2225,2306,2234],"tags":[],"magazine-issues":[],"coauthors":[1902],"class_list":["post-191561","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-arts-culture","category-sfa","category-today-homepage","category-uconn-storrs","category-uconn-voices","category-university-life"],"pp_statuses_selecting_workflow":false,"pp_workflow_action":"current","pp_status_selection":"publish","acf":[],"publishpress_future_action":{"enabled":false,"date":"2026-04-25 20:52:40","action":"change-status","newStatus":"draft","terms":[],"taxonomy":"category","extraData":[]},"publishpress_future_workflow_manual_trigger":{"enabledWorkflows":[]},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/today.uconn.edu\/wp-rest\/wp\/v2\/posts\/191561","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/today.uconn.edu\/wp-rest\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/today.uconn.edu\/wp-rest\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/today.uconn.edu\/wp-rest\/wp\/v2\/users\/68"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/today.uconn.edu\/wp-rest\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=191561"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/today.uconn.edu\/wp-rest\/wp\/v2\/posts\/191561\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":191780,"href":"https:\/\/today.uconn.edu\/wp-rest\/wp\/v2\/posts\/191561\/revisions\/191780"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/today.uconn.edu\/wp-rest\/wp\/v2\/media\/191726"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/today.uconn.edu\/wp-rest\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=191561"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/today.uconn.edu\/wp-rest\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=191561"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/today.uconn.edu\/wp-rest\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=191561"},{"taxonomy":"magazine-issue","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/today.uconn.edu\/wp-rest\/wp\/v2\/magazine-issues?post=191561"},{"taxonomy":"author","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/today.uconn.edu\/wp-rest\/wp\/v2\/coauthors?post=191561"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}